White Line Fever Strikes Again



by
Dave Allen

I had been reading the tour reports on the 4 Corners site for a long time; having retired in January, I decided this was the year to go for it. I had a pretty good '01 Concours, and it had been faithful through a lot of tours, but I was ready for an upgrade anyway, and this was a good excuse to move up. I wasn't ready to Gold Wing up, yet, though, as I still enjoy charging the twisties from time to time, so some kind of sport-tourer was still on the menu. I dearly love the BMW 1300 GT, but my wallet wouldn't stand for that!! The new Concours and Yamaha were a little too sport-oriented, though, so that kind of led me to the ST1300 Honda. All the info showed that they were bulletproof, and though it was heavier than the Connie, it seemed the ticket for me; besides, many years of riding have convinced me that Hondas almost never break. So I found an '04 with only about 20k miles, and had a new traveling companion. Now, what to take, and when to leave?

Since I truly HATE cold, there was no way I was going to the Far North before summertime, but I did want to dodge as much of the hot weather as possible. I figured that early June should be a good time to dodge the worst of the heat in the South (boy, was I wrong!), and it shouldn't be too bad in Maine at that time of year (well, 1 out of 2 isn't bad).

Decided that in case it got really cold, I had to be prepared, so bought a electric vest, apple warmer, and cold weather gloves, as well as thermals and clothing to layer my way through the cold. Never used any of it... I did install a Cee Bailey larger windshield, which was mainly good, though it introduced a rather disturbing behavior when catching up to 18 wheelers. Even at 100 yards or so behind them, the bike would move from side to side - not a wobble, or anything scary (after I got used to it, anyway), just a bit annoying. It did give pretty good coverage. I did find that the ST didn't give me the hand coverage the Connie did, since the mirrors are so low.

For entertainment sake, I bought and installed a Sirius radio, and also had a Ipod shuffle with 300 favorite tunes. Also bought a new GPS, but didn't wire for it, just used it with my earbuds and stuffed it in my tankbag. Actually, I mainly just used it to find motels and food, which was very handy! Mostly I just used old-fashioned maps in my tankbag, like always. So much for being cutting edge... The Sirius worked ok, but I quickly found that after a couple of days, the playlist just repeats and I got tired of the same thing, so mainly used the Shuffle after Key West.

Since I did NOT want to stop for tires, I replaced the partly worn Michelins with Dunlop Roadsmarts, based on research that said they were a dual compound with sticky sides and a hard center (sounds kind of like a candy, doesn't it). They easily lasted the trip - the front is still good, just worn kind of flat, and the rear is on the wear bars - I'm a fan!

One thing that absolutely had to be changed was the handlebar position. I don't know what it is with the manufacturers - maybe they have a deal with the aftermarket. They manufacture a great bike with a nice big windshield, then give you road-racy bars to lean on - and no wind to hold you up. A set of Helibar risers took care of that problem - I had used their products on my Connie, and they make good stuff.

Probably the best addition I made to the bike was the custom saddle from Bill Mayer Saddles. At first, I wasn't sure that it was really worth the price of admission, but after this trip, there is no doubt that IT REALLY WORKS! I don't care whose saddle you have, after 12 hours or so, you are still going to start doing the cheek-to-cheek boogie, but this postpones the pain longer than any other I have ever had.

Also installed a Throttlemeister throttle lock, since nobody made a Vista Cruise for this bike. I'm somewhat torn about this one. There is no doubt that it is a quality piece, and it does hold the throttle where you put it, but it is not as easy to apply as the Vista Cruise (just a flick of the thumb). It is, however easier to adjust the speed when it is applied. Just took me a while to learn the knack of twisting it on with my third and fourth fingers while holding the throttle steady.

With my fear of the cold, I did install actual Hondaline heated grips - and they work great. It seems there are three settings: warm, HOT, and Turn that thing back down! These were lifesavers, and may explain why I never needed the winter gloves. However, I think next time, I am going to get heated gloves, as the part of your hand exposed to the wind is NOT the part that gets warmed.

Next was a set of Frog Toggs raingear, and it worked really well - not all that hot and very light and packs well. Also makes a really good windbreaker. Only problem I had was that the third or fourth time I put the jacket on, the zipper exploded, so I had to use the snaps, which did suffice. When I got home, got the zipper fixed at the cleaners and they have been fine since.

That's about it for preparation; I already had a good coat with removable liner and good riding pants, as well as a modular helmet (which, by the way was mostly left open through the South or I would otherwise have suffocated! And it does, by the way, smell very bad at this point - guess I need to pull out the liner and wash it... My AlpineStar boots were great - easy to put on and take off, and my feet never got wet either - very comfortable, even to walk in.

The ST never as much as coughed, but did ping a bit under heavy load when the ambient was hot. Over 10k miles, and all I did was put gas in it and ride, aside from the oil changes. Fairing coverage is not as good as my old Connie, but the bike itself is dead smooth - no more tingles to put my hands to sleep. The tall gearing really makes for a comfortable, road burning machine, with plenty of roll-on power.


Day 1 6/3/10 - Las Cruces, NM

Left Ventura 4:30 a.m. to beat the LA traffic on my way to pick up I-10. First gas at Chiriaco Summit - nonstop. Turned South on 85 short of Phoenix and got 2nd gas and lunch at Gila Bend, then east to WIllcox AZ for next gas, which took to me to the finish in Las Cruces, NM about 5:30 Pacific , just 48 mi short of El Paso, which was my goal. I got dinner and gas in Las Cruces and decided to call it a day - 858 miles today. Was pretty hot almost all day; in the 90's, but not terribly uncomfortable. Tomorrow I attack West Texas; might stay in San Antonio tomorrow night. Bike ran great all day - AZ and NM both have pretty much 75 mph limits, so i cruised 85-90 no problem (my speedo is at least 5 mph fast). My fuel range is better than my butt. 250 miles is the minimum, and I'm pretty sure if I pushed it, 300 would not be out of reason. Getting about 42 mpg at current speeds. Smooth as silk - 5th pulls harder at 90 than it does at 70!


Day 2 6/4/10 - Kerrville, TX

Greetings from Beautiful, sweltering Kerrville, TX. Left Las Cruces this am about 6 and headed East. The good news is that Texas has an 80 mph speed limit. The bad news is that there is a lot of West Texas to cover, and it is all boring, straight, and most of all, HOT. By 10:00, it was pushing 100, hit 102 for a good while, then got downright chilly when it went down to 97 for a long time. Right now it is 94 here in Kerrville, but very sticky. The ST smoked right on down the road just fine, but I never could use the gas capacity, since I had to stop about every 100 to hydrate. I kept playing leapfrog with the 18-wheelers; I would smoke past them, then they would pass me while I was stopped for a break, then I would pass them again, etc. Must have passed this one truck 5 times... Did 556 miles today all told. I think I will get up vy early tomorrow and try to at least get past Houston before it heats up - Whew! I also lost an hour today due to time change.


Day 3 6/5/10 - Lake Charles, LA

Left this a.m. from Kerrville about 5 am to beat the heat. I would not make a good Texan; passed right through San Antonio without seeing the Alamo - saw the offramp, but since it was still dark, took a pass. A little while later, saw an offramp for old US 90 and got off 10 and rode about 100 miles on the old road. Went through a lot of small towns, and not a one had a regular old cafe - every one of them was a Mexican restaurant!! Houston has possibly the worst marked section of I-10 yet. There are all kinds of overhead signs telling about offramps and exchanges, but the only thing to give you a hint that you are still on 10 is the I-10 symbol printed on the pavement occasionally. A little anxiety provoking, to say the least. The farther east you get, the stickier it gets - here's the definition of sticky: When you walk out of an air-conditioned building, your eyeglasses fog up!! Never got over 90 deg. today - mostly in the 80's, but miserably muggy.

Took an offramp to see the battleship Texas, but it turned out I would have had to wait a while for the ferry to take me there, so I passed. I was about to melt sitting there in line... Hit just a few showers in Texas, but after getting into Louisiana, got hit pretty good. The rain hit so fast (I had my modular flipped up so I could breathe in the thick air) I didn't have time to flip it down fast enough and got rain on the inside of it; then to make matters worse, the windshield itself fogged up - almost flying blind there for a minute. Never occurred to me to put no-fog on my windshield - not to mention on my glasses!! The Texans seem to have a pretty liberal view of the speed limit - dropped to 70 in East Texas, but everybody seemed to keep doing 80; when in Rome...

Got to Lake Charles about 2:30 Central and called it quits - really glad to get into the air conditioned room and out of the rain!! Did about 400+ today. Tomorrow will be a short day - just running into New Orleans and will stay there after I do a little sight seeing. The weather seems to be clearing, so should be nice - if muggy - tomorrow. I'll send you the next update from the Big Easy - got to take a pix of the bike in Jackson Square - French Quarter.


Day 4 6/6/10 - New Orleans, LA

Short day today - got up late - 6 am - and rode to New Orleans - about 200 miles - not even a full tank. Couldn't check into the hotel, so decided to go to Jackson square for picture. No chance - it was a zoo. My GPS tried to send me down a sidewalk (Pere something Allee), which I could have done, but I don't think the cop sitting there would have approved. Finally parked nearby in another allee and walked over to take the picture. Then drove a few blocks to see the official WWII museum. They had a number of WWII military vehicles on display outside across from the museum near the theatre. The museum itself I thought was only so-so, but the movie across the street in 4D was very good - introduced by Tom Hanks and quite moving. Then told the GPS to take me to my old address where I used to live. Unfortunately, it started raining and the GPS got very confused and had me trying to turn onto the street that I was already on, etc., etc., so with the rain and all I just gave up. I had also programmed the thing to take me back to my motel. Well, it somehow lost track of where it was and had me going in circles, but it got me near enough that I could find it on my own. Maybe the rain affected it - who knows. Sure hope it works better when I really need it. I had left my jacket at the hotel desk when I couldn't check in, so there I was in just shirtsleeves - got pretty well soaked by the time I got back to the hotel, and of course it quit raining at that point. I plan to leave very early in the a.m. and try to make some miles toward Florida.


Day 5 6/7/10 - Tampa, FL

Left the Big Easy this am about 6. Thankfully, no rain! Sticky, but not hot - yet. Crossed eastern LA and on into Ole Miss - WOW! They have a great Welcome Center!! Looks like an antebellum mansion; beautifully groomed and very, very nice. A while later crossed into 'Bama - theirs is very nice also, and there was a NASA museum to see, but it wasn't yet open - it was still only about 8:30 am. On across 'Bama and stopped at the Florida welcome center, which has a Blue Angels Grumman Cougar on a pedestal and a/c in the place as well - makes me ashamed as a Californian - seems all we have is a stop to see if you have any fruit to declare... The roads as well as the rest areas put us to shame!

On into FLA and through Pensacola - was tempted to stop at the Naval Air museum, but the white line fever had got hold of me and I just kept rolling...

When I got to Tallahassee ( my original goal - abt. 400 miles) it was only about 2:30 and I just couldn't see stopping yet. Gassed and headed south down Claude Pepper Memorial highway. What a great road (aside from being straight...) I think this was the old 305 that used to run down the West Coast (though not actually on the coast). A lot of old dead motels and stuff - fascinating - and the road was terrific - I think I was one of maybe 500 people to use it today... Saw a bike stopped on the opposite side with gear stacked on it and another one in kind of a driveway near it, so made a bat-turn and went back. Was a couple of kids (20's) from Wisconsin who had been down to Lauderdale, then were on their way to see a relative in Mississippi, then back to WI. One was on an Aprilia, and one on an old Virago. All that had happened was that the Virago had run out of gas - they had already got some gas from a kind farmer and were about to leave, but thanked me anyway. Can't pass up what looks like a broke-down biker, though.

Rolled on South from there, and began to sniff the barn (I lived in Tampa as a kid), and when it got down to double digit miles, decided to go for it. Arrived here about 7:30 EST after approx 650 miles. Long day, but a a good one 650 miles plus. I've got to get an oil change tomorrow, so don't know where I'll end up tomorrow night, but will keep you all up to date.


Day 6 6/8/10 - Key West, FL

This am went to a place called Biker Bay in Tampa for an oil change. Showed up at about 9:30 and told them I wanted to get on the road asap; they said maybe half an hour. 2 hours later (after telling them where the oil fill was) I was on the road. Headed South on I-75 and across Alligator Alley into Miami, then south towards the Keys. Generally hot and sticky, but as long as you keep moving, ok. You start to feel like a shark – you have to keep moving to breathe and not run down into your shoes.

After the turn south towards Homestead and the Keys, I got rained on pretty well – bailed off the turnpike to wait out the storm, and was too stupid to raingear up. Got back on the turnpike (another 25 cent toll) and when it ended and I was on an under construction 2-lane, the rain really let loose. And there I sat, between oncoming traffic and a k-rail with nowhere to go, but just sit there in a puddle and drown when traffic came to a stop. Got thoroughly drenched down to my undies until the rain stopped on Key Largo, where I belatedly put on my gear – and of course it never rained any more all the way to Key West. So I started taking off the rain gear and blow-drying all my gear in place. First my shirt, then my jacket. There was plenty of time, since the speed limit is generally 45 mph. Every ride 130 miles at 45 mph? By the time I got to Key West, I was almost dry – except where I was sitting. A few miles out of Key West, I stopped for some reason and was passed by a Wing with CA plates. So I gassed it up and caught up with him. He was Steve Shulman from Newport Beach and was just finishing the 4 corners – 16 days. He was a real Ironbutt guy, though, complete with the license plate. He had ridden from S. Carolina that day and was going back to Miami before he slept. We took each other’s pictures for the record and he was off. I was off to my motel and a cold beer. Checked my phone messages and there was one from the bike shop – call them back asap. Well, by now they were long since closed – 8:00 p.m. So I called them the next day and they wanted me to check my drain plug – sure enough, it was finger tight, but I had only lost maybe a half pint. Nice of them to call me, but I don’t think I would give them a glowing recommendation… I’m going to take tomorrow off and head out early Thursday a.m. after dropping my envelope in the mail tomorrow night. 421 miles today - not too bad for a short day.


Day 7 6/10/10 – Day 1 of 4 corners - Richmond Hill, GA

This am up at 4 and on the road by 4:30. Have you ever ridden 140 miles at 45 mph? Seems to take forever and really slows progress. Finally got off the !@#$%^& Keys just in time to catch the morning Miami traffic. Imagine sitting on the 405 at 8:00 am at a stop and not be able to split lanes. Those of us who live in California are truly fortunate!! Finally got past Miami and let her roll a bit. Stopped at St Lucie for gas, and on up the road (I-95); felt I had to stop at Daytona and get a pix of the bike at the racetrack, then lunch and back on the road. Stopped for gas again just south of Jacksonville, just so I wouldn't have to stop IN Jacksonville, and motored on. Had decided at lunch that I could go further than Jax since it was only 2:00. Set my sights on Savannah, GA, but couldn't get a reservation for a motel there, so got one for Richmond Hill, a few miles south - not that far from the S. Carolina line - made 650 miles today! It's interesting down here - the trucks have no separate speed limit - they can go as fast we do, and sometimes do. It's interesting to be showing 80+ and have a big rig come by... In the fast lane!! Obama must be giving these guys lots of stimulus money - I-95 is largely under reconstruction all through Fla and Ga. ST just keeps on truckin'. Got truly incredible mileage this am - must have been all the 45 mph travel early this a.m.... So I'm gassed up and ready to go tomorrow - hopefully do a little better without all the 45 mph crap. Oh, south of Miami, I almost stopped for picture of the several " Crocodile Crossing" signs on the highway - though how they were going to crawl over the K-rail (painted turquoise, I might add) I really don't know...


Day 8 6/11/10 – Day 2 of Four corners – Fredericksburg,VA

Had a great meal of oysters in Richmond Hill, GA last night. Up at 4 and on the road. 100 miles north, realized that I had left my cell phone charging in the bathroom!! Did NOT go back...Stopped in Smithfield and got the free upgrade Verizon has been pushing on me for some time - good timing. Called the motel in Richmond Hill and they will send the phone to my home address - so at least I can put all the numbers back in the new phone when I get back. Whew!

Entered S. Carolina and took a picture at the Welcome Center in the dark; took another picture at the North Carolina border, but missed the Virginia welcome center and it was WAY too far to go back - bummer, because as I went by, it looked gorgeous. Steadily marched past a lot of history - places like Appomatox, Harpers Ferry, Shiloh, etc. On the way to the motel, I was passed by the Spotsylvania Fire Department... I plan to leave I-95 for a while out of Fredericksburg, VA, where I am staying tonight. I'm planning to veer west and away from the beltway to dodge all the big cities and their traffic. It's only 50 miles from where I sit to DC. Did 543 miles today; weather was good; a little hot this p.m., but nothing like what I have been dealing with. There was actually a short time this a.m. where I considered closing the vents in my jacket - only considered it, mind you, since the temp was only 71 deg. North Carolina simply makes California roads look pitiful. There is often a football-field sized median between the opposing lanes, planted with small trees and actual flowers. Where it is left to nature, there are trees on both sides of you, so you get a lot of shade from the rising or lowering sun. It is so lush and green!! Of course, what I am afraid of is just what makes it so lush and green - rain!! So far, so good since I left the Keys - wish me luck tomorrow. I will be off through PA soon and points north. I want to make as much as I can of the good weather, 'cause I simply hate to ride in the rain.


Day 9 6/12- Day 3 of 4 Corners - Cromwell, CT

Studied the weather HARD last nite and cancelled my plans to go west around all the metropolitan area, as the weather was coming from the west. Decided, since it was a Saturday, I'd gamble on getting thru the traffic by leaving early. My plan mainly worked well - and/or I was lucky. Was thru DC, Baltimore, Philly, and NY by 10:00 am or thereabouts. I kept seeing the weather off to my left and behind me. By the time I got into Connecticut north of New Haven, I decided to try to cut west on 91 and pick up 84 for more northing and to avoid Boston at midday. Well, it worked for about 30 miles, then I hit rain. Put on the gear and went another few miles, but it didn't look good, and given the weather forecast, decided to call it a day at about 400 miles in Cromwell, Ct. Weather looks really bad for tomorrow and part of Monday, but we will see what the morning brings - I'm within a day's ride of Corner 2, so would really like to make Madawaska tomorrow. Beautiful dawn coming out of DC this a.m. Boy, the people around here seem to put very little credence in speed limits. There were several so-called 55 mph stretches, and at 75-80 I kept being passed by a few. 70+ seems to be the average traffic flow regardless of speed limits. The Cross-Bronx expressway (I-95's route through the Big Apple after crossing the Geo. Washington bridge) is a wreck. Felt like I should have brought my dirtbike instead - it is cratered and potholed to the max, and even at midmorning on a Saturday it was packed. Boy was I glad to get out of there - I was toll poor by the time I got through NY - $8 to cross the bridge, $20+ to get up the Jersey Turnpike, then some more for the NY Thruway. I think (hope) I am finally done with tolls... The best thing about this morning was that I actually had to close the vents in my coat, though I never did put the lining back in; it was in the low seventies most of the way, dipping down to 68 at times - almost got out my regular gloves. Maybe I'll get to use some of that cold weather gear yet.

All told, it was a great ride - just a little too short. Oh, well, just have to deal with what Mother Nature gives you, I guess.


Day 10 6/13 - Day 4 of 4 Corners - Madawaska, ME

Madawaska at last! 560 miles later, here I am. The weather gods favored me!! It was very iffy when I left the motel this a.m. Streets were wet; clouds were low and a slight drizzle. As I was riding, I felt like Dirty Harry's captive - as if the weather was saying " Do you feel lucky - well, do ya punk?" It was misty/foggy/drizzly with a sprinkle here and there, but nothing that would actually make me put on my gear. It was interesting in Connecticut (at least I think it was Conn., or maybe Mass. - or maybe New Hampshire...) seeing towns with "Established 1693" or the like. And I was definitely NOT done with tolls - Mass has tools, Maine has tolls - seemed like no end to them. I actually put the liner back in my coat at a stop today, but by the time I got here, didn't need it anymore. Sun is shining here; let's hope the weather holds on the way west. The 2-lane that makes up the last 130 miles to Madawaska has to be experienced to be believed. The best word I can come up with is idyllic. Green, green, green, with old houses, and the road is magnificent!!! It is a real rollercoaster, up and down and back and forth, all gently, and often you can see for miles down the road just what squiggles it is going to have. Magnificent; it had obviously just rained not long before, and you could smell all the trees (smelled like Christmas) and wood smoke, and fresh-mown grass... well, only a biker could understand - you just can't get this kind of experience in a car. Toward the end, there was a 2 mile road construction - all dirt, but not too bad, except where it was wet - watch that throttle - this ain't no dirt bike! It certainly was nice to come around the bend and see the sign for Madawaska - Corner 2 - 2 down, 2 to go. The 4-corners park is really nice, the guy at the gas station knew exactly what I needed and all were helpful. Took pix at both the post office and the park. Checked in at Martin's Motel. Definitely low-rent, but clean. The border is just down the street a few blocks. Tomorrow, we'll see what Canada brings. What a great day!! Best day of the trip so far


Day 11 6/14 - Day 5 of 4 corners - St. Hilaire, Quebec

Well, kind of busted out today. Only got about 300 miles - 200 of them in drizzly rain before I pulled the plug just short of Montreal. Most of the time, the rain didn't amount to even enough to put on rain gear. Finally I put it on just because the sleeves of my jacket were starting to get wet. But the rain was getting worse and visibility was a challenge, so decided to hang it up in St. Hilaire, where I found a Transit Motel. Hopefully, the weather will clear a bit for tomorrow, and I can make some real progress. Signs keep warning me about moose and deer, but I haven't seen any so far - I think that's a good thing. But then, all my friends are saying, hell, Dave never sees anything but the white line anyway - and they're probably right. Yesterday I stopped in Maine for a rest, and spoke with a lady I had passed down the road. She asked if I had seen the moose off to the side with 2 cars stopped to take pix. Nope, I hadn't...

Seems like every offramp is a St. Somethingorother. There was one flashing sign (kind of like our amber alert signs) that was saying something about "Preparez something arrete). I thought maybe they were going to arrest me, but figured out later it was road construction "be prepared to stop (arrete). I also managed to cross the border without having changed any $ to Canadian - dummy. I went to buy a cup of coffee and they took my $US though. I had given the guy a $5 and only got change back. At first I thought I was ripped off, but the coins were $2 coins! Later I found an atm and got some Canadian $. The "18-wheelers" here are interesting - they appear to be 22-wheelers. There is another axle in front of the regular 2 on the trailer, sometimes with yet another set of bogies in front of that. I have also seen a couple of doubles - except both trailers are as big as our singles - makes for a really lo-o-o-ng pass, especially in the rain. I must say though, it is unusual to be able to cruise consistently between 125 and 130 - kph that is. The top limit I have seen so far is just 100 klicks - not much more than 60 - but everyone and their dog utterly ignores it, including the cops. I even watched one cop pull out of the median and a guy passed me at about 70 or so and proceeded to pass the cop, too - no action at all.

It's a strange situation to be pretty much clueless as to what signs mean, but I'm getting a quick education. "Travaux" means road work - and I think their workers are every bit as hard working as Caltrans. I am beginning to appreciate bilingual signage, though. Met one guy briefly at a rest area on a Spyder (those 3-wheel Polaris things), but couldn't talk with him - he only spoke French, and me with only English other than s'il vous plait and merci . But I did wish him Bonne Chance as he left. Saw several bikers eastbound in the rain and we shared a wave - what fools we are!!

All told, a challenging day, but had hoped for better weather. Tomorrow is supposed to be a nice day - Sure hope so; I have 624 miles to Saulte Ste. Marie, where I come back into the states. FYI, going into Canada was a breeze, just asked for my passport and where I was going and was I leaving anything in Canada and sent me on my way.


Day 12 6/15 - Day 6 of 4 Corners - Sault Ste. Marie, MI

On the road at 5:30 and westbound; snuck thru Montreal ok since I was there so early - not so lucky thru Ottawa - landed right in the middle of morning rush hour, but picked my way through ok. Shortly after Ottawa, the road turned to 2-lane, but not busy and pretty fast. Got to practice my passing techniques. With few exceptions, it was all 2-lane all the way to Sault Ste Marie. 640 miles - not bad for an old guy. Lots of small towns to putt thru though - had lunch at Nippissing at a (believe it or not) A&W. God, that root beer tasted good - but not as good as the Bud I've got right now... I met a kid at a gas stop on a clapped-out Yamaha 400 Maxim - an '82 I think. This kid had an army surplus backpack half-ass strapped to a homemade sissy bar, and one of his half-assed straps had come loose - showed him how to put the sissy bar inside the pouch on the pack so it was somewhat self anchoring - but I don't know about that welded-on sissy bar... The headlight had lost a bolt from one of the ears, so he wired that back on with some safety wire and thought he was really well prepared, eh. So I asked if he had a tire patch kit or irons - uh, no... Kid's got more balls than brains - God bless him. He has ridden that thing from New Brunswick to where I met him, and he is going to ride to B.C. - more power to him. Made me feel like a sissy. How great it is to be young and fearless.

We'll see what the weather holds for tomorrow. Hopefully I can get into Duluth and get my planned oil change.


Day 13 6/16 - Day 7 of 4 Corners - 346 mi - Ashland, WI

Well, today started out a bust. I got up at 6, showered, got dressed and went out to load the bike and it was raining cats and dogs. So much for that idea! Got on line and checked the weather - it was supposed to pass over from the west by noon or so, so I held on and watched the satellite pictures. If I could get through the front to a town about 50 miles away, it showed clear to the west of there. Finally at about 11 (checkout time), since the rain had slowed to a drizzle, I decided to gear up and go for it. It was kind of wet and nasty the first 50 miles or so, but the report was correct; I came out of it and it was a fine day the rest of the day. The only problem was I didn't have that much of "the rest of the day". Still, I stopped in Marquette, MI and got my oil change done, which I was going to have to do in Duluth tomorrow, so that's now behind me. The weather from there on was great and terrific scenery. I think I am going to suffer from "green overload". This California kid has never seen so much green - simply beautiful. I stopped in Ashland and had a pasty, just since I had seen them advertised so many times today. They are like an apple turnover, only with meat and potatoes of one kind or another stuffed inside - great!! They were apparently what the Welsh coal miner's wives would send with them for lunch. Stuff all the goodies in a pie crust and bake - they're done! Got a great motel in Ashland, Wisconsin (about 60 miles from Duluth) overlooking Lake Superior. I think I will relax tonight and get ready to boogie tomorrow, weather permitting. The forecast this a.m. showed I should be good for tomorrow, but after that, who knows.


Day 14 6/17 - Day 8 of 4 Corners - Dickinson, ND

Wow, what a day - I am absolutely beat. Stopped for the night in Dickinson, ND - only did 612 miles, but I fought for every mile. Had several thunderstorms to dodge, then caught hellish wind from Minnesota all the way across S. Dakota - I am now in Dickinson, just a few miles from Montana border. The first t-storm I saw coming and ducked into a little gas station/general store just in time in Minnesota. Had seen the lightning ahead and decided discretion was the better part of valor (let's see, if the tires are rubber, then I'm ungrounded, right? Hmmm). The storm only lasted about 15 minutes, blew through and I was back on the road. There were a couple of other small ones, but not enough to get me wet. The last one, in SD, was a lulu. I saw the road (I-94) was heading right for it, remembered that there had just been a sign for a rest stop. Rain just started pelting me as I dove for the exit. At the rest area, bounced over the curb and parked under a picnic cover till it blew through. The wind with it was incredible - the rain was absolutely going sideways - glad I found cover. From then on to here it was just a constant battle with the wind; mainly a headwind, but then I would see the road bend and cringe, knowing that I was going to catch those vicious crosswinds. At one point, on steady throttle, I was getting 22 miles per gallon. When I saw Dickinson, I was done for the day. Got probably the worst room of the trip - Super 8, but having been turned down w/no vacancy at 2 others, was not about to be picky. Anyway, I will look and see what tomorrow has to bring for weather. At least I am now out of that !@#$& wind for tonight!!


Day 15 6/18 - Day 9 of Four Corners - Ennis, MT

Up today at 5 am, looked out the window and the wind was still blowing just as hard as it was last nite - possibly harder. Oh, well - saddle up anyway - got miles to make. The first 175 miles was killer with the wind - death grip, white knuckles and head down all the way to Miles City - after this it just became a big pain in the neck instead of life-threatening. Wind still kept up till after Billings, but was much better; by Bozeman hardly any. While I was eating lunch in Billings, a guy approached me and said he had seen my filthy motorcycle and successfully deduced that I was on a long ride. Turns out he is an Ironbutt guy and helps out Mike Kneebone often. Ended up at Ennis, MT at a friend's place here and had a few beers and a fine home-cooked dinner - got to see several pronghorn antelope in their yard. All told, about 512 miles, so not bad day after all. I am taking tomorrow off and staying with Steve for a day, then leaving Sunday for WA state.


Day 17 6/20 - Day 11 of 4 Corners - Spokane, WA

Spent yesterday at my buddy's place in Ennis - had a nice day to relax; great conversation, scenery and a few beers with friends. Was really nice to kick back and not have a deadline. Today left at 6. Great scenery up and over the mountains and weather was good until Coer D'alene, Idaho, then turned ugly - rain again. Pushed as far as Spokane, but weather was only getting worse. Sat for a while waiting for it to pass - didn't seem likely after a couple of hours, so finally gave up and grabbed a motel here. 395 miles today. Hopefully tomorrow will check into Blaine and head south - if only the weather will cooperate.


Day 18 6-21- Day 12 of 4 Corners - Fife, WA

Woke up this am to RAIN! Hung out checking weather, etc. (and praying) until 8, then Frog Togged up and decided to push on thru the 50 miles west or so to where it seemed to clear up - and it did! From there on, it was just movin' on down the road. Touched my 3rd corner in Blaine and charged right back down 5 to try to get thru Seattle traffic before it got bad - almost made it, but traffic got nasty around Tacoma, so I decided to pack it in here in Fife and attack early in the am tomorrow; hopefully, I can get thru Portland before the morning rush hour. Given the late start, 522 miles is not too bad, I guess. I should be back in Calif. tomorrow!


Day 19 6/22 - Day 13 of 4 corners - Tracy, CA

This am on the road early in hopes of beating the Portland Traffic - not quite... Got hung up just over the bridge in a regular LA-style stop and go fashion, but finally got through to Wilsonville where a kind friend bought me breakfast, then back on the road south. I would like to know who the moron is who decided that it is a good idea to groove the pavement on high speed sweepers. Really spooked me at first in Northern Cal. - somewhere around Weed. Had planned to stop for my overnite in Red Bluff, but stopped in Redding and got a Pepsi, and a bite to eat, and just got in the groove after that and kept going. In Sacramento, called a friend in Tracy and they could put me up, so back on the road to Tracy, where I ended the day. Not bad for an old guy - 791 miles, all told. Tomorrow on to home - a short day.


Day 20 6/23/10 - Day 14 of 4 Corners - Back home in Ventura, CA

Up on the road by 7; an uneventful ride to my house; now sitting at my workbench at 1:00 p.m. Will be good to sleep in my own bed. Only 334 miles. I plan to lay over a day and then hit San Ysidro Friday.


Day 22 6/25/10 - Day 16 of 4 Corners - San Ysidro, CA

Finished at last! Up early today to try to make it down the 405 before the traffic got bad. Was mainly successful and hit San Ysidro by 9:00 or so. Took my pictures, did my paperwork and that was that. Rode from there to Hemet to visit with a friend for the night - the 300 miles exhausted me... Kind of a letdown now that it's all over - don't know what I will do with all my time from here on out. My front brakes are done( the Honda store in Michigan that did the oil change said it needed them soon, but they had no pads in stock), and the tires (as you might imagine) are just about done - and worn very flat - but they made it! I think I am sold on Dunlop Roadsmarts! Without all the time spent on the slab riding straight up, who knows how long they would have lasted! A total of over 10k for the whole trip.