| E/Z Ride (Eric/Zumer’s 2009 U.S.A. Four Corners Motorcycle Tour) After months and months of planning and anticipation, the time had finally arrived for us to depart on our U.S.A. Four Corners motorcycle tour. This tour is sanctioned by the S.C.M.A. (Southern California Motorcycle Association). This is a motorcycle tour and the entire distance must be ridden on your bike. Motorcycles with side cars and trikes are considered motorcycles for this event. You may visit the four corners of the continental United States (San Ysidro, California, Blaine, Washington, Madawaska, Maine and Key West, Florida) in any sequence and by any route that you desire. You do not have to return to the first corner to finish this event. You can start any time during the year, but once you start from one corner, you have 21 days to complete the tour. Gas receipts, a proof of visit information sheet and a postmarked envelope are required to show proof of your completion at each corner. Day 1: Monday, June 1, 2009 0600 I was supposed to meet my riding partner, Eric Engle at 0600 at Izzy’s Bagels in Fountain Valley. I had been in San Diego for the weekend at a photo class I had signed up for months prior. At the last moment, I noticed that all the routes for the tour weren’t downloaded onto my GPS & they weren’t loading properly from my laptop. No problem, so I thought, because they were on my portable external hard drive that I could connect to Eric’s laptop computer that he was taking. By the time I got to Izzy’s, it was 0630. So much for our early start to get across the desert. Traffic was light on the NB55 and EB91 freeways. It didn’t slow down until we were on the I-15 in Rancho Cucamonga. Heading across the Cajon Pass, we picked up speed. The entire trip, our speed very rarely was five miles over the speed limit. We stopped in Victorville and Lake Havasu for fuel. The temperature going across the desert on I-40 was in the high 90’s. Crossing the Colorado River at the California/Arizona border, the water looked very refreshing. In Kingman, on the historic Route 66, we stopped for lunch at Mr D’z Route 66 Diner.  With a good burger and onion rings on board, we were back on the road. Along the way, you could see parts of Old Historic Route 66. I believe the longest continuous section of the route goes through Topock, Oatman, Kingman, Peach Springs, Seligman and Ash Fork. As we started climbing in elevation, the temperature started to drop. We stopped in the quaint town of Williams to add some layers of clothing. Word of caution: when traveling through this town, maintain the proper speed limit, especially after exiting the freeway and driving into town. If you have time, you can take a train from Williams to the South Rim of the Grand Canyon. You can either ride the train both directions in one day, or stay at the Grand Canyon and return back to Williams on a different day. Back on the bikes, we stopped in Flagstaff for fuel and continued past the town of Winslow. Nearby is Meteor Crater. The film, "Star Man" with Jeff Bridges and Karen Allen was filmed there. We arrived at our destination of Holbrook, Arizona. Our plan was to stay in Super 8 motels, but that would change in the course of our ride. This accommodation was actually good. After checking in, it was time for dinner. We asked the front desk for some recommendations, and she stated that three blocks down the road was a good Italian restaurant. Well, being from the city, my definition of three blocks was different from hers. Half a mile away, we finally arrived at Mesa Italian restaurant. The food was excellent. The walk back to the motel was actually a blessing, due to the portion sizes of our dinners. The day’s total mileage: 586 miles Day 2: Tuesday, June 2, 2009 0630 After getting fuel, it was on to Albuquerque, New Mexico to visit Petroglyph National Monument. I was combining an Iron Butt Association National Park Silver Award tour with our Four Corners tour. What I needed to complete the Silver Award tour was to get 50 official park or monument stamps from 25 different states. I already have 24 stamps from California. This National Monument has petroglyphs, rock engravings by ancient Native Americans. Not to be confused with pictographs, which are images drawn or painted on a rock face. After getting my stamp, and inquiring about a good place for lunch, it was off to Garduno’s of Mexico restaurant. Again, the food was excellent. You normally can’t go wrong asking the locals for recommendations for eateries. Across from the restaurant, the Winrock Mall was vacant. Not sure if the economy or a new mall in another location forced the closure, but the rumor going around is that it will be used in an upcoming Terminator film and the mall is going to be blown up. After lunch, with one time change (Mountain to Central time) it was off to our destination of Amarillo, Texas and the Luxury Inn and Suites. At some point in the past, this motel may have been luxurious, but now, it’s run down and needs some TLC. Total mileage: 548 miles. Day 3: Wednesday, June 3, 2009 0700 Needing more National Park stamps, we were off to Lake Meredith National Recreation Area and the Alibated Flint Quarries National Monument. I was able to get both stamps from the Ranger Station in the town of Fritch. One of the Rangers actually grew up in the city of Orange and his father is a retired Santa Ana Fire Captain. Talk about a small world!  In Cheyenne, Oklahoma, we stopped for my next stamp at the Washita Battlefield. There is a new visitor center and viewing area of where the battle of Custer’s 7th U.S. Cavalry and four battalions charged into Chief Black Kettle’s encampment. Two hours later, approximately 30 to 60 Cheyenne lay dead in the snow and mud.  After crossing the state of Oklahoma and into Arkansas, we arrived at the Ft. Smith National Historic Site, one hour late and the visitor center was closed. We stayed at a Super 8 motel. The accommodations were just okay. It was a little noisy, but not too bad. Time for dinner, and off to the Ming Chinese restaurant, which was located next to the motel. Walking into the restaurant, we were the only customers the entire time. They had a buffet, and the food was surprisingly good. Total mileage: 513 miles. Day 4: Thursday, June 4, 2009 0700 Not wanting to wait for the visitor center at Ft. Smith to open at 9 AM, we headed to Little Rock and stopped at Little Rock Central High School. They have a new visitor center, across the street from the High School, which is still in operation.  The school was dedicated in 1927. The photo shows what an impressive building it is. In September of 1957, history would be made. The school desegregation crisis at Little Rock Central High School was put to the test when nine Black students tried to integrate the school. With President Eisenhower ordering up the National Guard and Arkansas Governor Faubus against desegregation, it was a very difficult time. With time running short, I decided not to get my next stamp at the Poverty Point National Monument in Louisiana, but head to Vicksburg National Military Park, Mississippi. With thirty minutes to spare, I was able to get my stamp. Then, we were off to the Best Western for the night. Being a Best Western Rewards cardholder, and having enough points, our room was free. Also, they cater to motorcyclists, especially Harleys. Total mileage: 406 miles. Day 5: Friday, June 5, 2009 0730 Today, our destination was Tuskegee, Alabama, where I planned to get two stamps, one from the Tuskegee Institute National Historic Site. The school was the brainchild of a former slave, Lewis Adams. In 1881, Tuskegee Normal School for Colored Teachers was established by the Alabama State Legislature. In 1891, it became an independent school, where Booker T. Washington taught. My second stamp came from the airfield for the Tuskegee Airmen, the all black Army Air Corps pilots. The film, “Tuskegee Airmen” starred Laurence Fishburne, Cuba Gooding Jr., John Lithgow and Malcolm-Jamal Warner. Leaving Alabama and heading into Georgia, we lost another hour with the time zone change from Central to Eastern. We arrived at Columbus and our last Super 8 motel. From prior experience staying in motels, I always check the room before unloading my vehicle. This way, I can make sure the room is to my satisfaction and also I can locate the parking stall to place my vehicle next to my room’s window. Well, the room was not satisfactory. My first clue should have been when we walked into the lobby to check in. The lobby reeked with cigarette smoke. Just waiting to check in, my throat was getting sore. When we walked into our room, the smell of urine was overpowering. We got another room, but with doors slamming all night long, and the type of clientele at that motel, we decided that our stays in Super 8 motels were over. Total mileage: 404 miles. Day 6: Saturday, June 6, 2009 0700 After leaving that fine establishment in Columbus, Georgia, we headed to Plains, the birthplace of Jimmy Carter, the location of the school he attended nearby and where his brother’s gas station was.   After having our photos taken with Jimmy and Rosalynn Carter, it was off to Ocala, Florida and Don Garlit’s Drag Racing Museum. When I was growing up in Gardena, I remember seeing many of the vehicles that are now displayed in his museum during the days of Lions Drag Strip in Wilmington, California. It was a trip down memory lane. Near the two buildings that househis museum is his residence with a three car garage with another six car garage adjacent to it.  We were told that he was working in one of his open garages while we were in one of the museums. As we had pulled into the parking lot, it had already started to rain. After checking into our motel, the Sleep Inn, which was next door to the museums, we were able to park our bikes under the covered lobby entryway. After cleaning up, we walked to Sonny’s Real Pit BBQ for dinner. Total mileage: 347 miles. Day 7: Sunday, June 7, 2009 0730 Leaving Ocala, it was time to get three stamps. First, we stopped at the DeSoto National Memorial in Bradenton. In 1539, Hernando de Soto set foot on the shore of what is now Tampa Bay. The day started out dry, no rain, but warm and humid. As we got closer to Big Cypress National Preserve and the Everglades National Park, it started to rain, and rain, and rain. It rained so much, Eric’s boots filled with water. I was surprised that he didn’t find any alligators in his boots. We did see some in the waterway when we were leaving the visitor center in the Everglades. It would have been fun to ride through the Everglades in the airboats, but due to the weather, the visibility was low. On to Miami, with rain in tow. After getting our bikes under the covered lobby entryway and out of the rain at the Best Western, it was time for gourmet eating at McDonalds’s. Total mileage: 393 miles. Day 8: Monday, June 8, 2009 0900 Up to this point, we were having continental breakfast before leaving the motels each morning. Today was no different. We were waiting for the motorcycle dealers to open so that Eric could purchase a t-shirt from the Harley dealer in Miami. His plan was to purchase a shirt as close to each corner of the tour as possible. With shirt in saddlebag, it was time to drive the 162 miles to Key West. The speed limit is 45 MPH, with construction zones along the way. It was slow, but it was beautiful. No rain, but warm and humid. I believe my temperature gauge was showing 96 degrees. The humidity was probably almost as high. As long as you were moving, the weather wasn’t bad. Wearing my AirMesh jacket, with the side zippers of my riding pants open and my windshield vent and Baker AirWings open, it was comfortable. Did I say the ride was beautiful? There are over 40 bridges you cross to get to the end. The longest bridge is seven miles long. Actually, it is 6.7 miles long, but it is easier to call it a seven mile versus 6.7 mile bridge. After arriving in Key West, we checked into our Best Western and then walked around town. Total mileage: 214 miles Day 9: Tuesday, June 9, 2009 Today was a non-riding day on the motorcycles. But we did ride the Old Town Trolley tour. This is the same company that runs tours in San Diego, California. They also run in St. Augustine, Washington, DC, Boston and Savannah, Georgia. Key West has 300 historical buildings. The trolley tour has twelve different stops, and you can hop on and off the entire day. The drivers share their knowledge of history and information about the area. One of the stops was only two blocks from our motel. We stopped at Mallory Square, where we visited Mel Fisher’s Shipwreck Museum. We both got to hold one of the gold bars on display.  Getting a little hungry, we headed to Margaritaville, made famous by Jimmy Buffet.   Eating conch chowder at Margaritaville in our cool shirts. Back on the trolley, we saw the Hemingway House, President Harry Truman’s Little White House, & the Southernmost Point of the continental United States. While taking photos at the point, a Yamaha rider pulled up. His name is John Ryan & he started his trek at Prudhoe Bay, on the North Shore of Alaska. 5,191 minutes (86 hours & 31 minutes) later, he was in Key West, having traversed 5,645 miles, the entire North American Continent the long way . He destroyed the existing time record for this trip by a clean 9.5 hours. He said he could have done better but lost about three hours due to two things. They held him at the border crossing from Canada for 90 minutes and then he made a wrong turn in Tennessee that added about 120 miles. Read about his trip at  Day 10: Wednesday, June 10, 2009 0530 Today is the actual beginning of our Four Corners tour. We got our fuel receipts yesterday, and with our paperwork filled out, I went to the Key West Post Office to drop off our envelopes while Eric packed his bike. With that done, we are now officially starting the Four Corners tour. We have twenty-one days to complete this ride. Is the weather going to cooperate? We’ve already had some rain, and Eric just loves riding in it!!!!!! Are the bikes going to make the long ride? Are we going to be mentally and physically able to finish? Time will tell. Because we are now on the clock, we will be hitting the road earlier, which means no time for continental breakfasts. Normally, the breakfasts start at 6 or 7 AM, but we will be leaving the parking lot at that time, if not sooner. This first day will be the longest since we left home on June 1. Our destination is Brunswick, Georgia. With a three hour drive from Key West to Miami, then the morning traffic in Miami, we were anticipating a long day. I was surprised at the number of State Troopers we saw on I-95 from West Palm Beach to Jacksonville, Florida. If we had that many Chippies writing tickets, I think our State budget would be in the black. Total mileage: 614 miles. Day 11: Thursday, June 11, 2009 0615 Leaving Brunswick, we headed to Congaree National Park. This 24,000-acre park protects the largest contiguous area of old-growth bottomland hardwood forest remaining in the United States. Then we headed to the Blue Ridge Parkway. The Parkway is actually 469 miles long, starting from Waynesboro, Virginia from the north to the Great Smokey Mountains National Park in the south.  We were only traveling a short section from Fancy Gap to Roanoke, Virgina, where we were staying for the night. Before starting this tour, Eric had purchased a helmet camera to film videos during our travels. He also was carrying a digital SLR. I was carrying a small digital point and shoot camera. Well, for some reason, his laptop computer, being old, was working verrrrrrry slowly. Therefore, I was not able to connect my hard drive to his computer and download the remaining routes onto my GPS. Not having the information in the GPS, I elected to stop collecting my National Park stamps. Total mileage: 551 miles. Day 12: Friday, June 12, 2009 0700 Not having to worry about getting stamps now, we headed down the Interstate, versus the Blue Ridge Parkway. Before getting to Staunton, Eric got on his CB and said that his bike was making some loud noises and that we need to stop at the next Harley Davidson shop. We arrived at Staunton H/D at eight-thirty. The dealer didn’t open until nine. While his bike was in the shop, I headed to a Home Depot to get some parts to fix the broken bracket that holds my GPS. When we were traveling through Miami, I stopped at another Home Depot to get some JB Weld to fix it, but it was only a temporary fix. Buying a metal bracket, I was able to remount the GPS. I needed to stop at the local fire station to resize the holes on the bracket. One of the firefighters was from the Victorville area. I told him he would not recognize the area now, due to the growth of Victorville, Apple Valley and Hesperia. While at the station, Eric called to give me the news about his bike. They found a worn bearing that needed to be replaced, and they did not have the part. The closest dealer with the part was in Roanoke, ninety miles away. Isn’t that where we started from this morning? Ah, well, back to Roanoke to pick up a $15.00 part. I guess that is why Harley riders need a Honda rider in their group, to get parts when they break down. Six hours later, we are back on the road. We make it to Hagerstown, Maryland. Zumer’s total mileage: 442 miles. Day 13: Saturday, June 13, 2009 0615 To avoid traveling through Baltimore, Philadelphia, New York City and Boston, we stayed on Interstate 81 to Scranton and Binghamton. Then we took Interstate 88 to Albany, New York, then on Highway 9 to Keene, New Hampshire. Highway 9 is a biker’s dream! Nice sweeping turns. Total mileage: 516 miles. Day 14: Sunday, June 14, 2009 0630 We continued on Highway 9 to Concord, then to Portsmouth, Maine, where we had our first taste of toll highways. We had planned to get some New England seafood, such as clam chowder or cod, but it didn’t happen. We ended up at Houlton for the night. Total mileage: 442 miles. >Day 15: Monday, June 15, 2009 0600 Today, we should reach Madawaska. On the way, we saw a moose in the distance grazing in a field. One hundred-forty miles later, we arrived. While getting gas at our required stop, a gentleman, Joe LaChance, stopped and asked if we were on the Four Corners tour. After saying yes, he presented Eric and me a Certificate of Award from the city of Madawaska. He asked if we had been to the park that honors the Four Corners participants. After getting gas, we were planning on stopping at the park. But first, it was time for breakfast. The Crystal Lynn’s restaurant had the best all meat omelet. After eating, then dropping off our envelopes at the post office, we stopped and spent some time at the park.      After photographing the park, and talking with Joe LaChance about all the work that he and his dedicated volunteers have done with it, it was time to leave. But first, Eric needed a t-shirt from Madawaska. Unfortunately, the shop was closed on Mondays. He said that he would try and order one by phone. So, with passport in hand, we crossed the border to Riviere-du-Loup, Canadian Highway 20 to Montreal and back into the United States at Champlain, New York. We continued on Highway 11 to Canton. The Best Western had an indoor pool, whirlpool and sauna, which was enjoyed by Eric. Total mileage: 592 miles. Day 16: Tuesday, June 16, 2009 0600 The day started with a flame. On exiting the bathroom, I smelled smoke! When I mentioned it, Eric immediately jumped off the bed and ran to the microwave. Apparently, his shorts were still a little damp, so he was using the microwave to dry them. He had left them in a little too long and they started to smoke, to the point that the room filled with it. Note: microwaves are for warming food, NOT drying clothes. With an early start, we continued on Highway 11, then I-81 to Highway 104, stopping in the town of Mexico, New York, for breakfast. Continuing on Highway 104, we made it to Niagara Falls. What a sight! I can’t get over the amount of water flowing over the falls. Niagara Falls is actually three falls, the American, Bridal Veil and Horseshoe Falls. Leaving the Falls, we continued on Highway 219, I-86 and I-90 to Mentor, Ohio. Before checking into the Best Western, Eric was experiencing some problems with his throttle. Also, one of my low beams was burnt out. After checking in, I inquired about local bike shops. With luck on our side, there was a Harley dealer in town. After unloading my bike, I headed to the dealer to find the tail end of a biker’s night party going on in the parking lot. Also, the Honda dealer was next door. The service department did not open until 9 AM. I went to the local K-Mart to get Eric some degreaser for his air cleaner and again, with luck on my side, I found a two pack of H-7 Philips light bulbs for my Wing. Of course, then my other low beam went out. Riding back with my high beams in the lowest position and my fog lights on, I made it to the motel. In a short while, my new bulbs were in place. Total mileage: 526 miles Day 17: Wednesday, June 17, 2009 Off to the Harley dealer. After six hours, they found a broken wire that went to the wire connector of his throttle assembly. Back on the road, Eric noticed that his cruise control was not working, although it was working fine prior to taking it to the dealer. Back to the dealer. They cut the wires off & removed his Back Off system, stating that was the problem. (This aftermarket system is attached to the rear brake light. When the brakes are applied, the brake light flashes five times before staying bright. The unit has its own ground wire. We believe that the ground wire was not reattached, therefore not allowing the cruise control to set, because it thinks the brakes are being applied. The dealer’s mechanics were totally inept. Hopefully, Eric can get it reattached it properly.) By the time we got his bike from the dealer, it was five o’clock. So, we headed back to the motel in Mentor. Total mileage: 10 miles. Day 18: Thursday, June 18, 2009 0530 We wanted to get an early start, due to morning traffic in Cleveland, Toledo and Chicago. But on I-80, the Turnpike, we made good time. Taking the toll road is quicker and cheaper. Taking the Interstate was longer & used more fuel. We stopped in Davenport, Iowa for lunch and we were treated to an air show by the Blue Angels. They were practicing at a nearby airstrip for a show that weekend. Some of the Angels looked like they were only twenty feet above the ground. We stopped in Waterloo at the Hampton Inn for the night. Total mileage: 718 miles. Day 19: Friday, June 19, 2009 0615 From Waterloo, we continued on Highway 20 to I-35. On this stretch, we saw more pronghorn antelopes on both sides of the highway. We continued on I-35 to Albert Lea, Minnesota, then on I-90 to Sioux Falls and into Wall, South Dakota. Along the way, we drove through a lightning storm. We saw one strike that hit the ground only a quarter of a mile away. Luckily for us, we had no shocking experiences that day. We ate dinner in downtown Wall and walked through the famous Wall Drugs. Total mileage: 646 miles. Day 20: Saturday, June 20, 2009 0520 Getting another early start, we headed to Rapid City and then to Mt. Rushmore National Monument. I really need to return to the area and spend more time there. I loved the town of Keystone & could easily spend five days in the area. We did not see Custer’s Park, the Badlands, or the Crazy Horse Monument. Our destination for the night was Livingston, Montana. Livingston is only 50 miles from Yellowstone. But due to the weather (rain and dark skies), we opted not to go to Red Lodge from Billings. If you are in the area of Red Lodge, a ride through Beartooth Pass and on Chief Joseph Highway is a must. Total mileage: 619 miles.  Day 21: Sunday, June 21, 2009 0640 From Livingston, we continued on I-90, through Bozeman, Butte, Missoula, Coeur d’Alene and Spokane. We needed to get close to Seattle, so that Eric could visit his cousin. Because of the speed limit, we made good time. It was windy, so we had no rain. The rain clouds were being pushed behind us. But we were fighting the wind. When we were about to cross the Columbia River at Vintage, I was hit by a strong gust of wind that almost blew me off the bridge. That would have been a heck of a dive and swim. We got to North Bend before the rain. Luckily, the Sunset Motel had garages for our bikes to stay dry. Well, my bike stayed dry. Eric went to see his cousin in the rain, and while visiting, it started to hail. It rained the entire time he was gone. Total mileage: 705 miles. Day 22: Monday, June 22, 2009 0600 From North Bend, we continued on I-90 to I-405 and then onto I-5 to Blaine.   After getting our gas receipts, we had breakfast at the Seaside Bakery and Café & filled out our paperwork. While there, it started to rain. Again. After taking our photos at the post office, we deposited our envelopes and headed to Bellingham so that Eric could get another t-shirt. We continued on I-5, again crossing the Columbia River at the Washington/Oregon border. But this time, it wasn’t windy. We stopped in the town of Albany, Oregon, at the La Quinta Inn for the night. We borrowed their garden hose to give our bikes much needed baths. Total mileage: 512 miles. Day 23: Tuesday, June 23, 2009 0730 We got a late start today. We stayed for continental breakfast at the motel since we had a lunch date in Grants Pass, Oregon with one of our retired firefighters and his wife, Ken and Kit Blakkan, so we were not in any hurry.   It was great to see them both. He no longer has a bike, but he misses riding. After spending hours talking, it was time to hit the road. It was nice traveling through Yreka, Weed and the Shasta Lake area. But once we hit Redding and Red Bluff, the temperature was 100 degrees, at 5 PM. We stopped in Dunningan, California for the night. Total mileage: 501 miles Day 24: Wednesday, June 24, 2009 0620 Taking advantage of continental breakfast, we departed late. We continued on I-5, looking at the San Joaquin valley. Living in Southern California, I probably could travel I-5 in my sleep. We stopped at the Grapevine for an In-and-Out burger. Instead of going all the way to San Ysidro, we each decided to stop at home for the night. Total mileage: 478 miles. Day 25: Thursday, June 25, 2009 0900 We met at the Fire Station to meet up with one of our fellow firefighter riding buddies, Chris Kudelka, who wanted to accompany us to the finish. With three bikes and the information already in the GPS, we arrived at the gas station for our receipts, paperwork filled out, photos taken at the post office, envelopes deposited,   we headed to the Blue Water Seafood for lunch and a celebration that it was finally over & done with. 
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